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• Fox Float Rear Shock Manual

Hey everyone, I've been riding full suspension bikes for about 10 years now, 10 years of 20' BMX before that. I'd consider myself an 'average' rider per say.

Fox Float Rp23 Boost Valve

I'm by no means a pro or a racer, but I don't think I suck too bad at the same time either. Anyway, I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a Santa Cruz Bronson and I'm down to the R Am or the SPX kit. Components aside, I'm looking at the difference between the forks and shock being Fox Evolution vs Factory w K coating.

Fox Float Rear Shock Manual

FOX CTD Evolution VS Factory Having. I bought my first Kashima coated F34 150 Float this year to match my Kashima coated shock (RP23).

My question is, given my 'average' experience level, would I be able to tell the difference between Evo and Factory and is it worth the extra $1000 to upgrade? Thanks in advance!

Fox Racing Shox and Trek pooled their resources and know-how to work on a highly modified air shock that uses two air chambers in an effort to get the best out of both a smaller volume air spring and a more forgiving larger volume air canister. The result is the Fox Float DRCV RP-23 and RP-2 shocks that you'll find on select Trek full suspension bikes. Having logged too many miles to count throughout the 2008 and 2009 seasons on pre-DRCV Remedy's, I've now been able to put in some quality miles on a model equipped with the new DRCV technology. Inside you can see how the design works and read my thoughts on its performance. If you only had a quick glimpse at the Fox Float DRCV shock you may not notice the damper's extra length that is positioned above the upper mounting point.

Another look though and it becomes obvious that there is certainly something very different going on here. The extra length at the top houses the smaller, secondary air spring chamber, which is partly where the DRCV name is derived from. The 'DR' stands for Dual Rate, and is as simple as that.

The two different air chambers provide two different rates depending on where the shock is at in its stroke. Connecting the two chambers is a plunger, or valve, that opens the airway between the two at a predetermined point in the travel. The plunger is referred to as the control valve, or the 'CV' in DRCV. The goal with this technology is to be able to have your cake and eat it as well, meaning to have a lively but firm spring to push against that is provided by the main chamber, but benefit from the secondary chamber's ability to add a more linear and forgiving end to the stroke.

Setting up the DRCV shock is similar to any other air shock, but an extra step is required during the process that you wouldn't have to do with a standard unit. The DRCV equipped Remedy that I've been putting time on came with a card that gave me a guideline as to where to start with air pressure for the spring rate, but if you don't have it handy it's also listed on the Trek website. You'll want to start with about 10 psi more than your body weight. I weigh in at 170 lbs and so I pumped until the gauge read 180 psi. Now comes the additional step required with the DRCV shock: it is very important for you to push the bike into 50% of its travel at this point in the setup. What you are doing is pressurizing the smaller secondary air chamber and you need to push the bike far enough into its travel so the plunger is activated and opens the airway between the two chambers. Once this is done you’ll need to check sag with the nifty clip on sag meter that tells you what percentage of the travel you're sitting in.

If you don’t have enough sag, you’ll need to take pressure out and vise versa if you have too much sag. If you look closely as your putting the pump on, you will see two pressure readings as you screw it on to re-check pressure. This is due to the two Schrader valve system that connects the different chambers to facilitate set up filling. Just make sure you screw it on fully and not stop at the first reading.

The first pressure will read lower than the second pressure and it is the second pressure that correlates to the initial pressure you put in. Anytime you make a pressure adjustment you need to be sure to repeat these steps, not doing so will hinder setup and could result in a funky ride. With the recommended pressure in the shock I was sitting into 25% of the travel, a bit less than I thought I would eventually end up with, but a good place to start. As with any shock that uses a pedal assist, be sure to have the Pro Pedal fully open while going through the setup steps. Once the spring rate is in the ball park, you can adjust your rebound setting accordingly.

Keep in mind that changes to the air pressure, which acts as your spring, may necessitate changes to rebound settings. This photo of a Fox Float DRCV shock cutaway clearly shows the larger air chamber below (with the damping rod running vertically in the middle of it) and the smaller secondary air chamber located above. Hidden behind the Trek bike's EVO link is the plunger that opens and closes the airway between the two. In the early stages of the travel the shock is working solely with the main air spring, at the 50% point of the stroke the plunger comes in contact with the seal head and is pushed up, opening the airway between the two air chambers and effectively creating one large chamber. The plunger is spring loaded so that when the shock rebounds, it retracts and closes the airway once again, leaving the smaller air chamber pressurized to the same psi as before.

Getting deeper into things, the Boost Valve compression characteristics have been tuned with a Light Velocity Tune and 175 psi. DRCV shocks have all used a modified rebound circuit to deal with the shock's dual spring rate, but the new 2011 models have been tweaked to add more end stroke control while not effecting the small bump response. You can also see the sealed bearing upper shock mount that Trek uses to mount the DRCV damper, making things a touch smoother. While all that can sound quite complicated, all that matters to most riders is how it performs on the trail. After spending most of the previous two seasons on multiple non-DRCV Remedys ( they were equipped with an RP2 and a RP23), I certainly have enough experience on both types of dampers to properly compare the two. With a handful of rides that I used to dial in the DRCV shock's pressure and rebound settings, it was soon clear that there is a performance difference between this new damper and the older non-DRCV RP23 shock on my previous Remedy.

When set to the same air pressure ( I typically ran the DRCV shock with 5 psi less than the standard RP23 though) the shock was undeniably, slightly more active at the top of its stroke. I'm convinced that even though rotation at the upper shock mount is minimal, the addition of the sealed bearing in place of the usual DU bushing is the reason for this.

On the trail the shock is more active and likely to absorb the small irregularities that can upset traction. The difference between the two shocks is very noticeable when compared back to back and on the first ride on the DRCV equipped bike I ended up stopping to check the pressure of my rear tire multiple times, not because I was rolling slower, but because the ride felt so much more forgiving that I quickly suspected a slow flat, which wasn't the case. This sort of rocky terrain is where one can really feel the difference between the standard shock and the newer Float DRCV. Despite the more active nature of the DRCV shock, it managed to remain composed in hard corners, a trait that I've always liked about the 150 mm travel Remedy. While not as noticeable as the improved small bump activity, the DRCV's ending stroke is also more forgiving as well. I wouldn't go so far as to say that the bike feels as if it has any more travel, but impacts that happen when the shock is already near the end of the stroke do not feel as harsh.

The transition from only using the larger air chamber to both chambers is seamless when the bike is being ridden, and I never could feel the plunger being activated as it came in contact with the seal head, something that was a concern of mine at first. Older Remedy's had their Fox shocks equipped with an XV ( extra volume) air canister that made for a very forgiving linear stroke, but did sometimes require higher air pressure to keep the bike from gobbling up its travel too quickly depending on the rider. Because the Float DRCV shock's main air chamber that is used for the first half of the stroke has smaller volume I found that I could run slightly less pressure than I had used on the standard Float, making for a more forgiving early stroke. While I would certainly tell you that there are advantages to the DRCV technology, you should take note of a few points before deciding if this technology is for you, one being that it is not possible to swap it out for any other damper due to the upper EVO Link's sealed bearing shock mount.

You'll also only find Float DRCV shocks on Trek bikes. With this in mind, if something does go wrong, you're chances of walking into a shop and finding a shock are greatly reduced when compared to a shock that uses traditional mounting bolts. I've had zero reliability issues at all with mine, but it is something to keep in mind. The setup procedure is also slightly more involved, but I'd expect most riders who are dropping coin on a bike equipped with this technology to take the time to run through all setup steps. After countless miles on Trek Remedy's equipped with both the standard RP2 and RP23, as well as the newer DRCV shock, I can say that there is definitely a performance advantage to be had.

The ride was smoother, I felt like I had more traction, and the bike was more forgiving when it reached the end of its stroke. It is hard to argue with any of that. Something is not completely clear to me: why isn't it just simplier to put on a DHX air or Vivid air for more stroke and bottom out control comparing to RP23? Weightwise DRCV and DHXair must be very close, constructionwise: these additional bearings and mounting metal meat? Not sure about that. As far as my speculation goes: Trek just felt that they can fit something up there over the evo link instead of just throwing on reservoir-equipped air shock and make their suspension system even more. Theirs - and there's nothing wrong about that if you ask me it's good to have variety Reply.

As far as my recent research goes, since Fox installed Boost Valve in Floats RP23 large air sleeve versions wallowing on long travel frames is pretty much gone. Dunno how is it with DHX airs which always had boost valve and still people complained about their midstroke excessive dive on linkage frames.

Haven't ridden either one of the shocks - so dunno. Just ordered a Pushed RP23 for my Nomad and guys there assured me that there is no wallowing anymore - I guess a man can have faith in what these guys say Reply. I think u cant really compare this one with the dhx.some of u are talking about the resevoir on the dhx, and here the point is a bigger air can.these are different things.the reservoir on the dhx is there to assist the 'damping' of the shock (compression, progression, bottom), in this case the point is a bigger, or better, a dual air sleeve.u can have a dhx or an rp23 with the bigger air sleeve, or u can have the small air sleeve.what is the difference? The difference is simply that the bigger air can is better for dh and freeride, and the smaller for xc.why? Because if u see supension dynamometer diagrams, u will see that a big air can produces a very linear line through the travel, and the small air can is more progressive.now, what trek is doing with this shock is to have both, because its good to have a progressive suspension for when ur climbing, so the shock wont blow to the travel and give u pedal bob, but its also good to have a big air can for the dh, thats when u need a linear shock to absorve all the impacts along the way, without the feedback from the ground throuing u over the bars all the time.ahan!

Now this trek shock is starting to make sense isnt it? Yes it is.however, u still cant compare this to the resevoir on the dhx, snce that is controling the 'damping', and not the spring rate/progression.these are 2 different stuff with different pourposes Reply. @WAKI: I have no idea how it would behave on a VPP bike, but I get the feeling that Trek developed this (with Fox) to work with their single pivot suspension designs. I don't think (for now at least) you will find any of these as aftermarket shocks.

As I understand (which is not much, when it comes to suspension designs, mind you), VPP has maximum pedaling efficiency when the bike is in its ideal sag. I'm not sure that adding a feature such as DRCV would benefit VPP very much, and may perhaps adversely affect performance. Then again, this is just my speculation.

Thats true.i alo ride a 2008 dhx5 coil.still running strong.and i can give u a little tip if u want.the pressure range on the dhx5 goes from 125-200psi, if u ride wit the minimum and want to use some propedal, u dont feel a thing.then what u should do is to increase the pressure and then u will see how the pro-pedal acctualy works.another tip is to ALWAYS adjust the IFP pressure with FULL OPEN pro-pedal knob and bottom out resistence knob.if these knobs are turned in then the pressure that ur pump reads is wrong Reply. I know this subject has been covered a bit over the net but Im having problem with my drcv on my remedy 2015. I'm 215lb geared up and set my drcv shock to 230ish psi to get 30% sag( and I am cycling the shock past 60% to equalise chambers), but I can't get full travel of the shock? Even off 3 ft drops? I can only get full travel of the shock when riding with sag of say 40% which is way off! I am I'd say a aggressive rider, Ex downhill rider so I would have thought I'd be able to get all travel, especially when.everyone says that the drcv is too linear and can't stop bottoming out. Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks Reply.

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